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The OP in that linked thread was offered a settlement on the court steps and the tribunal accepted that settlement so case closed. The real life result for that OP was that he achieved a $10,500 payment even though not all the bits of the side of the block were found :cool: And any...

Glad it works for you and that it’s much cheaper than the stupidly priced stuff from the chemist (30 tablets for $36). Ignoring price, all drug warnings can drive me nuts… From the web page you posted: Warnings For adults only at bedtime. Not for pregnant or nursing women. May cause drowsiness...

It’s part of their wiring security logic probably to keep thieves at bay :p:p:p But if memory serves correct it’s a total bust as VK was one of the easily stolen doors :eek:

https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/seized-engine-vf-ss-ii.297163/post-3332120 In that case the end result was that a settlement was reached for $10,500. Why, because the dealer was worried they’d loose at the tribunal and be stuck with a much larger $17k+ bill while @henrytad felt...

Nah, more like moving deck chairs on the Titanic :oops:

@joshcomm, this thread is from 2016 but getting a clear answer on what must be retrofitted and what programming is required would round of this thread nicely even in 2024 :cool:

phone a friend? Using wood can be tricky unless you take specific care about the load paths and the fixing methods you use. Some sort of metal truss/wall plate and lots of bolts would be the go… I‘d not use nails…

I’d make it out of steel And not wood. And I’d pop into a local bike dealer and see if they have some bike shipping crates (that years ago they’d just toss out) as that would make a good platform to start with building a hoist jig for the bike.

Never lifted a LS3 so take what I say with a gain of salt… Just be careful that the box section you use isn’t too big so the box section sits nicely on the flats of the engine mount. Else if they are too big and sit on the edge/curve, with the 200kg off a fully loaded LS3, they may splay open...

I’ve seen that video and other and have probably posted that one and others on the forum at various times… Really there are many ways to skin that current drain cat :p the thing they all have in common is being methodical as there are no magic shortcuts:(

Ok, tell us again you have a hoist :p:p:p:p

Not sure why people spend money to actually get more noise vibration and harshness especially after they’ve already paid for the development effort to reduce NVH in their new car :rolleyes: It’s like big brakes or gear change pauses in EV’s and such oddities that almost seem as logical as...

@losh1971, taking the sump out is a bit of an effort in one’s driveway. That’s especially the case as compared to simply washing one’s hands (after sump removal) and taking a few snaps with one’s phone so as to post something interesting on a car forum :oops: So not sure why @Mon-aro seems to...

Removing one fuse at a time or all fuses at once and then putting one at a time back in while checking the current draw really makes no difference (unless your inclined to mix up fuses and pu5 wrong ones in incorrect positions)… It’s just to be methodical and know what is fused and what is not...

Yeah I forgot the wagon doesn’t have the Bose amp as it’s a little different to the sedan :p Guess I’m not a train spotter :oops:

Pictures, we love pictures :cool:

You knowingly bought as car with an engine knock and oil under the engine :oops: Hope you bought it cheap enough to be able to replace the engine :cool: PS: if you're lucky there may be lots of engine parts that are serviceable and thus sellable...

@hiker, fully charge and load test your battery with it out of the car. If it tests good, reinstall the battery and then remove all fuses and disconnecte all non fused modules including the alternator, and if you're still getting a draw, you'd have a wiring problem (a 9 ohm resistive short to...

open its working... closed its not working... open its working... seems similar to an indicator lamp :p:p:p

Dont think these head units all have line level out though the CalaisV has Bose Amp at the read and these have line out. Line out/low level out seems to be a software configuration thing so it may be posible to "upgrade" lower units via sms calibration software... possibly... Don't discount...

Or have a forum code that can automagically resizes large pics so members don’t need to worry about such trivialities :p

Well we are all getting older, so there is that :p

You must be missing that GM equivalent to the VW pollution cheat code which is why you’ve chucked an ESC error message :p:p:p:p

Interesting instantaneous fuel consumption where you briefly hit 99.9 ltrs/100km :p My VF caps max reading at some silly arbitrary number, I think 39ltrs/100kms, so I guess GM/H must have gotten embarrassed with such high readings so they decided to hide them from us :mad:

I though the shield was further up and the hole was for o2 sensor access… but nah… Whether it’s the handbrake or not, maybe Paul will enlighten us :p

P0030 is the o2 sensor heating circuit so look at your o2 sensor wiring since you've been removing and reinstalling them ;)

Since you have a different sound and it seems rougher than before, put the heat shield back on as that will return the car to before TC faffing about. Why, because a change in sound can play on our minds and have us thinking something is wrong. But while your under the car, have a good look at...

It’s a heat shield and that one you’ve posted looks like it goes over the cat converter which runs rather hot on todays modern cars. Whether the cat runs hot enough to cause issues with wiring running above the floor if the heat shield is not in place I have no idea but I’d install it at the...

I think you just did :p:p:p

Selector switch can be removed separately from the valve body. As I posted earlier, these switches can become faulty if the trans fluid has metallic crud within as that makes its way into the switch tracks and causes shorts… seems the switch can become problematic before the transmission...

Stuff that pops up on YouTube :p:p:p

The roller within the red circle follows the cam that’s on the side of the case and provides the detent clicky action posted in an earlier video. Meanwhile the end of the brown plastic rod fits into another part near the roller cam that pushes the plastic rod back and forth so the electronics...

Simplicity is so underrated :cool:

Easy to miss things…. Like me once filling an engine with new oil after a flush only to see new oil spreading at my feet and sump plug on the fender :p:p:p

I don’t believe the TCM needs reprogramming if a torque converter is replaced with a standard factory unit. After all, the TCM programming hasn’t been changed and is already programmed and “learned“ for that vehicle variant. Heck, I’ve read many have replaced a faulty TCM with a used TCM from a...

Here’s one chap pulling apart the position selector in a 6L50 which is supposedly the same as in a 6L80… Seems dirty fluid can stuff them up and the6 don’t read correctly even if the rod is being moved correctly. If you diagnose it as the selector position switch problem and not something else…

We already know that despite moving the gear selector leaver within the cabin, the TCM thinks its still in P, so that needs to be corrected before considering trans oil levels. You could use a cheap OBD diag tool and a phone app, to check what position the TCM thinks the selector is in as...

Now that’d be funny, @HSV-Paul reads message, goes into garage and looks on floor only to see a selector rod hiding in a corner :p:p:p

Not sure what’s going on but as the transmission is 6L80E where the E stands for electronic control, I’d guess if the selector position switch isn’t being moved, the car stays in park because it thinks it’s still in park even though the lever would have mechanically deselected the locking pawl...

Katana saw also known by its original and I believe 1st brand name of sawzall :p