VZ Commodore Alloytec Engine mount change

[oldmate with dirty hands]

G'day all.
VZ Alloytec Engine Mount Change
1. Disconnect battery
2. Chock the back wheels before jacking up the front of the car. safety 1st
3. Use axle stands to support the car. As you will need the jack later on
4. Undo the the flange to exhurst manifold bolts. 13mm. Use paper bags and write where the bolts and nuts come from.
5. Undo the top half of the heat shield. 3 x 10mm bolts.
6. Use a 13mm deep socket and short extension bar to undo the exhurst manifold bolts and remove. Passager
7. Remove drive belt. ****Note take a pic or draw a diagram of the drive belt before removing****
8. Remove alternator. 7mm spanner and undo the bolts not the nuts. just makes it easier.
9. Undo exhurst manifold bolts and remove. drivers sides
10. Use a 18mm socket to loosen (crack) the engine mount nuts. 1 nut on top 1 nut underneath per side of the engine. DO NOT UNDO THE NUTS JUST YET!!!!!!!!
11. Find a piece of wood to place under the sump and slow jack up the engine... Some people will say not to do this but this is how i have change engine mounts my whole life and have never cracked or damaged the sump. JUST JACK IT UP VERY SLOW.
12. With the engine now taking up the weight undo the engine mount nuts. And keep jacking until the mounts are able to be taken out by hand.
13. Fit new mounts making sure to line up the locators when lowering the engine back down..
14. re-installation is reverse steps.
15. Torque all nuts and bolts up to spec..

I hope this helps some people out. If you can afford new exhurst gaskets replace them to save having to pull the manifold off again..
This is 2nd post so go easy.. I did the engine mount change this way as this was the only way i could see how it could be done and made access for me easier..

 

[DJ Ray]

Sorry for the thread bump everyone, but I thought I'd post my findings on this job, so others can see it as a resource. First of all,

DON'T BUY THE EBAY SOLID RUBBER MOUNTS!!!!!!

They are really crap. My original ones were a bit tired, but they were so much better than these ebay ones. It turns out the stock VZ mounts are hydraulic filled rubber, but the $70 aftermarket mounts are solid rubber. I spent a fair part of the day installing these new ones, to switch the engine on and feel the vibration and harshness of rubber mounts. It was like driving a manual and being in 4th for a low speed hill. The whole car shook, and it felt woeful. Driving around for a while did not help. So I then went on to spend half the next day putting the old ones back in. Complete waste of time and money.

Below is an alternate way of doing the drivers side mount, if you don't want to remove the exhaust manifold. Get yourself used to the idea it will be a right pain of a job. Basic steps are as follows:

1. Jack the car up and pop the bonnet, disconnect battery
2. Undo both lower mount nuts (18mm deep socket). Keep the passenger side on but loose, and take off the drivers side nut.
3. Jack the engine up, more on the drivers side, spreading the load over the sump with a large piece of wood.
4. Take the serpentine belt off.
5. Remove the 3 nuts on the alternator (17mm I believe).
6. Remove the 3 studs that hold the alt in place (7mm spanner) and carefully shift the alt out of the way.
7. Remove the upper heat shield on the header, three 10mm bolts. Optional, but it makes less things to smash your hand on for later.
8. Now you will see your next task for the day. The top nut on the engine mount. Yep, it's way down there. Get yourself comfortable and attack it with an 18mm spanner. Use the ring end, and turn till it hits the bracket, then flip the spanner, and turn some more. A ratcheting spanner would make it easier. This nut is the longest time I have ever spent undoing something. See if you can beat my record of about 15 minutes...
9. When you eventually get it off, carefully jack the engine up until there's enough space for you to wangle out the mount. It comes out with difficulty around the headers, out the top of the engine bay.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure to line up the tabs on the mount so it sits correctly. When putting the belt back on, make sure it is sitting correctly on all the rollers. I'd hate to do this job again, but I'd rather do that than pay someone lots of money to do it for me.

 

[scaredyet]

I'm in need of new engine mounts turns out mine are shot. I went to Holden this morning and they want $110 per side but I've read the Mackay brand is good

 

[Fu Manchu]

I'm in need of new engine mounts turns out mine are shot. I went to Holden this morning and they want $110 per side but I've read the Mackay brand is good

Yep.

 

[scaredyet]

I've got multiple posts on the same car with different issues but almost all under control maybe a super post with solutions that were done is needed

 

[scaredyet]

Mechanic quoted me about $400 for the job he said it's a 4 hr job and you need to pull out a lot of things from the engine

 

[Fu Manchu]

$400 is a fair quote.

 

[scaredyet]

Another place said 3hrs at $120 hr so $360 and it's closer to home so I might go there

 

[scaredyet]

I'm sick and tired of dodgy and unreliable mechanics.

I had one mechanic quote me $250 I dropped the car off in the morning his receptionist was there he waited till 5pm to tell me he can't do it till next week even though he told me to drop it off Yesterday.

A other quotes me $500

I'm going to end up doing it myself. Is there an easier way?

 

[DavesSV6Tonner]

New genuine VZ V6 Alloytec mounts $180 for a pair.
https://www.holmart.com.au/holden-commodore-engine-mounts-vz-wl-3.6l-v6-alloy
Although freight costs may make it the same as buying from the Holden Dealer at $110 each.