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Ve commodore idle issue

Allyshia

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I have a 2010 Ve commodore international. 3.0L SIDI V6

Recently my engine light has been turning off and on same with my stability control. I have taken it to my mechanic to get it read, but at the time the engine light wasn’t on. Nothing has come up on the computer when it was read. All I was told is that it’s just a bit of shitty fuel running through the car causing it to misfire. (I only use 98 premium)

Occasionally when the engine light would come on my car would idle rough when stopped and sound like it was about to stall. (Its an automatic)
Normally it stays on for about 5 seconds then turns off and my car goes back to running normal.

I have just recently had my timing chain replaced, engine mounts replaced and cold air intake put on the car.

I was wondering if anyone has had the same sort of issue, or knows what the issue could be? I have been told it could also be spark plugs but the mechanic seems to think they are fine.
 

RiCeY

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Try putting the original intake back on and see if it cures it.
 

Boardwalk Ray

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Check your purge solenoid valve.This links the charcoal canister at the back of the car with the inlet manifold, it is meant to be momentarily opened by the engine computer to purge fuel vapour from the canister. The valve on my car was stuck in the open position allowing unmetered air to enter the inlet manifold. This created a lean condition which manifests as a rough idle and engine codes popping up, also the stability control icon on the dash flashing on/off.My car is also an auto and it also felt like it wanted to stall.The codes on my car indicated a lean condition on both banks don't recall the exact code numbers, my mechanic couldn't find any vacuum leaks, recommended I take the car to an auto electrician " who could look further into the codes".Auto electrician confidently states "yeah mate seen this before, you should be running 98 and your o2 sensors (all 4)are knackered.Book the car in and we'll get it fixed."
Well $900 dollars later, I pick the car up, drive the 4km home and you guessed it same codes pop up.Not happy Jan!!! Auto electrician was talking out of his arse.
I then figured I'd have a crack at it, checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the intake manifold and TB. Looked into PCV valve problems ( these engines don't have a traditional pcv valve) Was just about prepared to replace intake manifold gasket/o-rings, when I figured I'll check the purge valve solenoid. To test it, disconnect and remove the valve, you should only be able to blow air through it in one direction. If you can blow through it in both directions, it's stuck open and needs replacing.About $150 from my nearest holden spare parts department. One electrical connection and one 8mm bolt to remove/replace and 10 minutes later I'm done.Problem solved, no codes or rough idle since. close to 100,000km have since passed.
Sorry for the long winded reply, was absolutely pulling my hair out at the time and I don't have a lot to spare.
Hope this helps
 

Allyshia

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Check your purge solenoid valve.This links the charcoal canister at the back of the car with the inlet manifold, it is meant to be momentarily opened by the engine computer to purge fuel vapour from the canister. The valve on my car was stuck in the open position allowing unmetered air to enter the inlet manifold. This created a lean condition which manifests as a rough idle and engine codes popping up, also the stability control icon on the dash flashing on/off.My car is also an auto and it also felt like it wanted to stall.The codes on my car indicated a lean condition on both banks don't recall the exact code numbers, my mechanic couldn't find any vacuum leaks, recommended I take the car to an auto electrician " who could look further into the codes".Auto electrician confidently states "yeah mate seen this before, you should be running 98 and your o2 sensors (all 4)are knackered.Book the car in and we'll get it fixed."
Well $900 dollars later, I pick the car up, drive the 4km home and you guessed it same codes pop up.Not happy Jan!!! Auto electrician was talking out of his arse.
I then figured I'd have a crack at it, checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the intake manifold and TB. Looked into PCV valve problems ( these engines don't have a traditional pcv valve) Was just about prepared to replace intake manifold gasket/o-rings, when I figured I'll check the purge valve solenoid. To test it, disconnect and remove the valve, you should only be able to blow air through it in one direction. If you can blow through it in both directions, it's stuck open and needs replacing.About $150 from my nearest holden spare parts department. One electrical connection and one 8mm bolt to remove/replace and 10 minutes later I'm done.Problem solved, no codes or rough idle since. close to 100,000km have since passed.
Sorry for the long winded reply, was absolutely pulling my hair out at the time and I don't have a lot to spare.
Hope this helps



Yeah I have replaced my emission purge solenoid before. As I’ve had the same issue in the past, but it would only happen when I had a full tank.

Ive been told the cold air intake can send codes all through the computer that are false.

I might try and test it again, and see if it is the solenoid.

I don’t want to go and spend the money to find out that it’s something so simple like that again haha

Thanks!
 

RiCeY

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Get someone with a scan tool to see what the long term fuel trims are it, will tell you if it's running lean/rich.
 

Wildcat1559

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did you resolve the problem? i own exact same model/year and 3.0 and had exact same issue even down to stability disabling and check engine light only lit when the engine rough idles, also only run 98.

dirty intake valves seems to be a common culprit. taking it in to holden
 

RiCeY

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You can check your intake valves by removing the intake manifold and shining a torch down the intake runners, all the valves are visible.
 
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