My HSV Clubsport

[MrBags]

Difilippo extractors plus cats $350. Look a bit ropey but....

View attachment 267038

Give em a real good clean, and couple of coats of header paint or possibly have them coated?
I’d be tempted to just try the good clean and paint option if I was in a hurry.

 

[07GTS]

sure they are for VE ? ive never seen DPE with the cats close to stock place like that, and DPE should be stainless so shouldnt rust ?

 

[HSV-Paul]

sure they are for VE ? ive never seen DPE with the cats close to stock place like that, and DPE should be stainless so shouldnt rust ?

Prob not then hey..

 

[VT2Commie]

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[HSV-Paul]

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[HSV-Paul]

Been away for a bit and misses quite a number of posts but yes you're correct in your wondering

The TC is pushed fully into the transmission so presses hard against the pump. Then when the transmission is bolted to the engine there should be a 1/8” gap between the TC and Flex plate. As such you then pull the TC away from the transmission pump by that 3mm gap and bolt it to the flex plate. Doing that will ensure the correct clearance between the various parts so that any growth in size (ballooning) of the TC as it gets hot won’t cause anything to bind up (thus avoiding pump damage or trust bearing damage).

Who‘d have thought a TC could balloon 3mm during operation

In older transmissions, as I‘ve understood it, production tolerances were much worse that those of today. As a result of old school‘s poorer production tolerances, fitting a transmission required lots of checking. Mechanics would usea straight edge and measuring TC bolt boss to bell-housing bolt face distance (1) then measuring the engine block to flex plate bolt face distance (2). With a little maths, one could work out the TC to flex plate clearance (3=1-2) and ideally that would be 1/8”… If the clearance (3) was much larger, spacers and appropriate length bolts would be used between the TC and flex plate to ensure that important 1/8 clearance existed. If the clearance wasn’t sufficient, they’d machine the bosses an appropriate amount to ensure the correct clearance. Such issues around machining or spacer use simple aren’t an issue these days with high tolerance high dimensional quality manufacture

Much of this was mentioned in the video I posted (and/or the video I couldn’t find and link to)

Skid factory YouTube change also goes into a lot of this TC clearance stuff and the reason for its importance (TC ballooning during operation causing crank trust bearing failure or pump failure is no clearance)

Thanks for the clarification. I didnt think there was supposed to be a loose FP rattling around in there and once the 2 FP bolts were tight it was quiet, all knocking had gone so knew this was how it 'should' be.

I think my oil leak is first on the priority list, then the vibration when driving.

All go all go!!

 

[Skylarking]

I think my oil leak is first on the priority list, then the vibration when driving.

All go all go!!

I’d swap priorities unless the oil leak is more like a tap turned on…

Why because vibration can cause parts failure and if it’s coupled with some odd harmonics itcan be catastrophic.

 

[chrisp]

I haven’t watched it all yet (it’s quite long), but this video is educational and inspiring. I makes me think I’d have a crack at an auto rebuild myself if the need arose and I thought I was being quoted too much to have it done professionally.

I thought that I’d park it here in case it is of use.

 

[lmoengnr]

Haven't played around with a 'modern' auto yet, but did help Dad rebuild a Ford C4 auto trans that was mounted behind a 302W in his Mazda RX4 sedan.

 

[Lex]

I think my oil leak is first on the priority list

Have you had a look, to see where the leak is coming from?