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My HSV Clubsport

HSV-Paul

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Just need a jack now that will work with that platform.
Also need the height.
I'm gonna build a frame to sit the transmission on and be as good a height as needed. I'm using jacks to raise and 3 ton stands to support car. Aim is to get the engine as good as the height the TM is and just slide into place, TC back in its home....

We'll see....
 

chrisp

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When I told him about my current TC and the snapped bolts drilled out, going to 55nm in torque or whatever it was he was like "wow why you doing them so tight???"... "spec I replied" (62nm I think) and he laughed. Said to use a good thread locker and do as tight as you can with a standard wrench, that's your torque...lol. Both him and the wrecker guy were tickled by all of this.

Hmmmmm....

That’s all good, but do they have an explanation as to why the existing bolts worked loose? I suspect we all know the answer to that question.
 

Lex

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I'm gonna build a frame to sit the transmission on and be as good a height as needed. I'm using jacks to raise and 3 ton stands to support car. Aim is to get the engine as good as the height the TM is and just slide into place, TC back in its home....

We'll see....
Thats good that you are using the 3 ton stands.
Hope there not the ratchet type?

To wheel the jack with the trans under my car (vt wagon). I bring it out & in from the rear.
But l have the rear stands sitting on 8" x 8" x 4" concrete pavers.
That allows the rear of car to sit high enough to roll the jack with the tranny sitting on it under the car.

I've done this numerous times with the 6L50 & the 4L60, & l'm still here.
 
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HSV-Paul

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That’s all good, but do they have an explanation as to why the existing bolts worked loose? I suspect we all know the answer to that question.
I think I've been with 2 bolts for months as the knocking started ages ago, and got more often as time went on. I honestly thought it was just something knocking from the exhaust or something as at one point it didn't do it in reverse, so I thought it was putting pressure in an opposite direction as to when in drive, but it was only when me and the son in law listened from below, he said the flex plate straight away. I tightened the 2 and both were loose, 1 worse than the other. I tightened the 2 but didn't use any locking compound and they obv didn't last, well 1 more snapped the head off it after a footfall and the rest is history....
 

chrisp

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I think I've been with 2 bolts for months as the knocking started ages ago, and got more often as time went on. I honestly thought it was just something knocking from the exhaust or something as at one point it didn't do it in reverse, so I thought it was putting pressure in an opposite direction as to when in drive, but it was only when me and the son in law listened from below, he said the flex plate straight away. I tightened the 2 and both were loose, 1 worse than the other. I tightened the 2 but didn't use any locking compound and they obv didn't last, well 1 more snapped the head off it after a footfall and the rest is history....

Or, there is a fair chance that the torque converter has been removed and reinstalled before you purchased the car - and the bolts where just done up ‘tight as you can with a standard wrench’? And what about the Loctite? Obviously, one or the other - or both (torque and loctite) - weren’t done right to cause those bolts to work loose.

What gets me is that some fasteners are in critical or important locations. And the manufacturer goes to the trouble to specify the required tension for those fasteners, and then some ‘professionals’ will simply do them up ‘do as tight as you can with a standard wrench’ and they think it’s fine to ‘send’.

If you have a torque wrench, and to can get in to the bolts for the torque converter, then use it. I have been surprised many times after initially doing up fasteners to what I thought was the same tension, and then going over them with a torque wrench. Just by having to do up a bolt in a contorted body position totally throws out my perception of ‘how tight’ a fastener is. Doing up a torque converter bolt lying on your back under a car will feel like it is tighter than doing up a similar bolt standing up in a clear space.
 

Skylarking

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Skylarking

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And what about the Loctite? Obviously, one or the other - or both (torque and loctite) - weren’t done right to cause those bolts to work loose.
Yeah, who knows the root cause… maybe over tightening?

I’d just be a little cautious if using Loctite and then using a dry torque spec. Doing such will result in over tighten the bolt. You’d need to downgrade the dry spec to a wet spec which is 20% less ;) or so they say :oops:
 
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chrisp

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Yeah, who knows the root cause… maybe over tightening.

I’d just be a little cautious if using Loctite and then using a dry torque spec. Doing such will result in over tighten the bolt. You’d need to downgrade the dry spec to a wet spec which is 29% less ;) or so they say :oops:

Which might be why the manufacturers will state ‘remove and discard’ and ‘install new’ as their torques figure are for a new bolt with the ‘micro encapsulated’ type of thread locker?
 
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HSV-Paul

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You've all been doing it wrong.... :p


:eek: :eek::eek:

Altho!.... what else would them 3 x cut outs in the plate be for...
 

HSV-Paul

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So this is off and out of the way. Told to just remove this side and will have heaps of room...

Screenshot_20240418_095933_Gallery.jpg
 
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