My HSV Clubsport

[HSV-Paul]

Patching a stuffed loom because the insulation is degrading can be like putting a finger in a dike. It’s ok as a temporary emergency repair but not the best solution long term as the insulation will continue to degrade.

Obviously the solution depends on whether the insulation damage is mechanical in nature or due to some chemical reaction that degrades the insulation. But replacement is a much better solution if the cause is chemical degradation rather than insulation being rubbed through because of vibration.

Have you checked what a new engine loom actually costs at a dealer?

Yep I hear you... but it's only ever brittle outside of the protection, near the plug for some reason. I've wrapped anything individually and then in a group. Checked the cables further into the loom and as I say it's only at the end by the plugs that's ever brittle.

Long term yes a replacement but $1,000 new. Some old used ones for $500 odd but yeah nah, new or nothing.

Anyway, for now...

 

[HSV-Paul]

But I’d be fixing those oil leaks before investing the time and money in to replacing the loom.

And I've found it. 100% leaking from this corner of the sump gasket. Bolt is well tight enough but seeping daily.

Engine mounds off today. Apart from a few pipes what else is stopping the engine from coming out lol

 

[Skylarking]

From this distance, that looks like chemical damage. More specifically, it is oil (from a leak?) on PVC insulation. It somehow leaching out the plasticiser out of the insulation and the insulation becomes brittle and crumbs away.

It will probably be confined to the ends of the wires (assuming that’s as far as the oil went). A reasonably good fix would be to remove a pin from the connector (using the proper pin-extraction-tool) and sliding a piece of heatshrink tubing over the problem area, then reinstall that pin (so it goes back in to the correct hole). And repeat for each pin. It’s not a perfect repair, but much better than taping it. Also, glue-lined heatshrink will help protect the actual copper conductors for further chemical issues, but it might also make the loom too stiff?

New engine loom would be idea, if they are available and not stupidly expensive. But I’d be fixing those oil leaks before investing the time and money in to replacing the loom.

Yeah it‘s probably oil that’s damaged the wiring but I thought i’d keep it broad since there are lots of chemicals used around engines. For example ethyl glycol can corrode silver plated connector pins which is yet another issue…

The fact the oil can be wick some distance along a wiring loom also means that the degradation can occur mId loom and not just at the connector ends. This means one could be chasing odd, intermittent and strange system faults for a not so visible wiring problem, even after fixing the wiring near connector ends. It can become frustrating and a real PITA very quickly.

To determine how bad the oil damage may be within the loom requires some effort but it’s effort well spent so one can gain confidence in any proposed repair. If the oil has indeed soaked some distance into a loom, then replacement may be the best solution (but costly) if one actually wants reliability long term. Obviously fixing the root cause goes hand in hand with any repair.

In part that’s why I’ve always hated and addressed oil (any fluid really) leaks with urgency because of the problems they can cause to wiring (though the fact it upsets my clean engine bay ocd may play a bigger part )

At the end of the day it’s for Paul to determine how bad the oil spread may be and find a solution within his budget

 

[HSV-Paul]

So first I thought wow, the drivers side extractor is easier to get off. That back bolt is heaps easier to get to! Then I tried removing it and that damn steering is in the way. Anyway long story short. Good job I went thru the agg to get to this mount hey....

 

[HSV-Paul]

And the other mount (albeit newish as I replaced it so less than a few years tops) was on its way too.

OK extractor is off but seriously it took less than 5 mins to do the nearside mount. Prob 2 or 3 hours the drivers side... lol, but that included removal of extractor and all that entailed. Plus lack of tools and awkward angles, we got there in the end.

So now I have 2 x new Kelpro mounts fitted and ready to go...

 

[HSV-Paul]

Oh and tell ya what. Learning heaps with this car and its layout etc, what's needed to access this, what you gotta do to access that. All for the win as I see me keeping this car forever now. Kinda annoying as I had both extractors off earlier and I want to put on better so perfect time to get and put on but funds a bit tight atm as not working or I'd of snapped up a set.

Won't touch the TM till I have the input shaft seal (was $75 BTW... ), the main seal kit, more bolts and sommit else that escapes me now. Should be here in a day or two so fingers crossed can be rebuilding at the weekend or early next week.

 

[vr304]

Not trying to sound negative but those kelpro mounts will probably only last a couple of months and you’ll be replacing them again, if you can get ahold of some Mackay engine mounts still that would be the way to go as they are the oem mounts, better to do it once and do it right while you’re at it

 

[HSV-Paul]

Not trying to sound negative but those kelpro mounts will probably only last a couple of months and you’ll be replacing them again, if you can get ahold of some Mackay engine mounts still that would be the way to go as they are the oem mounts, better to do it once and do it right while you’re at it

Someone on here recommended them, but either way they'll be better than what I had.

 

[HSV-Paul]

Oh and with ever on going low power mode trip by P1516 and P2315 etc etc I was told that I MUST use a silver finned TB AND get the computer wiped or defaulted. If I don't wipe the computer I'll forever have it throw codes and all the rest.

Now a GM new can be over $1000 but I'd have a go at a SH one. This is $280 firm and only not being used as he went bigger. Could be waffle but jist in the msgs he seems legit.

Bit shiny but lol, but I know we'd all love to buy brand new GM but funds won't permit and it's a SH GM or a brand new GOSS one as they're $300 odd.

Would you?

Oh and what's the go with these bad boys? The 2 that go on the TM are a right pain and totally in the way...

 

[HSV-Paul]

Went to a local wrecker guy earlier for a power steering reservoir as mine leaks. $20 and done dusted. He said he knew I had a stock cam from the sound last time I was there in the car. The guy also said my lifters are on their way, but anyway, these numbers will mean something. Quick google told me nothing...