Cruise Control Speed +/- Switches Intermittent- Fixed

[MikeC]

The cluster switches on our cars are starting to show their age these days. My cruise control switches started going intermittent with the RES+ failing totally each time I drove more than 30 km or so down the highway. When tested he RES+ terminal on the CC module was getting a signal from the switches that varied from zero to about 4 volts.

I do a lot of driving on the Hume and really need the CC to work- last time I was pulled over the cop looked at my record and described me as a serial speedster-which put paid to any ideas of asking for clemency.

Anyway, I pulled the switches apart today and found that the brass contact buttons had worn through the solder contacts down to the plastic PCB board. I built the contacts back up with solder and rechecked the CC module inputs. The module is now getting a full 12V signal to both the SET- and RES+ terminals.

With VQ cluster switches almost impossible to find in good condition these days, I hope this keeps a few more of us on the road.

 

[MikeC]

The built up contacts.

 

[91SS]

Still haven't done mine yet........CRS light only came on about 3 times last 12 months during cold weather and hence inoperable briefly.

Got to plastic weld 2 tabs when cluster comes out hence my apprehension.

Hate that but fussy.

Might add imagine newer cars with lead free solder and more electronics after a few years.........ouch.

When I get around to doing it willtry to add pics.

Great when people close threads and your one of the best.

 

[MikeC]

Thanks. My intermittent CRS light was due to dry solder joints. They're the bane of our car instrumentation systems these days . And the days when you could buy a good replacement cluster switch block on ebay for $30 are long gone. I haven't seen a VQ II RHS cluster switch block (with the security light on the lower right button) for sale for years.

You can get away running the instruments without the side tab screws on the instrument case but you need to wedge something under the front of the case to make sure the lower LCD's stay fully visible in use. I'd weld tabs on if I knew of a reliable glue that would work on the Holden plastic.

 

[91SS]

Thanks. My intermittent CRS light was due to dry solder joints. They're the bane of our car instrumentation systems these days . And the days when you could buy a good replacement cluster switch block on ebay for $30 are long gone. I haven't seen a VQ II RHS cluster switch block (with the security light on the lower right button) for sale for years.

You can get away running the instruments without the side tab screws on the instrument case but you need to wedge something under the front of the case to make sure the lower LCD's stay fully visible in use. I'd weld tabs on if I knew of a reliable glue that would work on the Holden plastic.

I have had success with plastic welding rods available on internet. Check the back of our plastics for type.......believe it's ABS. You could also use an old piece of interior plastic of same type.

Also had good success using fibreglass cloth, available in paint sections of hardware..........it's a stringy thing hard to cut but using a few strands of fibreglass cloth joining the tab or break/crack place strands and then using superglue spray Glen20 which acts as accelerant. Done good works this way (when I got it right) re glueing tabs,reinforcing cracks etc and results are virtually unbreakable.

Only got to watch damage to other areas from drips, seeps and heat plus account for slightly increased thickness of repairs meaning sometimes things may not sit right if not careful, why I hate fidgety work like this.

But it's the only way because even though 3D printers are reproducing some things certain areas will be forever unobtainable.

 

[gtrboyy]

Damn wiper washer button is another painful...seen alot fail rego time & buying 2nd hand probably no better than what is on car already.

Last one I bodged up with matchsticks to get car passed lol

 

[MikeC]

Damn wiper washer button is another painful...seen alot fail rego time & buying 2nd hand probably no better than what is on car already.

Last one I bodged up with matchsticks to get car passed lol

Yep. I bodged my button washer stalk about 10-15 years ago with a long flat headed case nail. The nail's steel is much stronger than the original Holden plastic. It's still there- I don't see any point in paying $200-300 for a replacement switch just to get the original button and stalk out.