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you plan on running thermo fans at any time?.... if so go the biggest you can afford as they are power hungry mothers

depends.... Many moons ago, I lost a very hot 202 at 7500.... drag racing at CAlder you see stopped with an electrical fault ! ....coz the No.1 rod came out the side of the block and took the alternator with it :eek:

... that was my thought a disconnected rod and /or cap that has gone for a walk

... new engine time something BIG has let go inside!

really...??? you took SIXTEEN years to tell us that? (a very long thread dig thats for sure!)

... whats wrong with the original ones? they are designed to last many a kilometre

DEF yes to that... I check eBay and then ring my local Holden parts dept.. consistently cheaper

hmmm..... dunno where you are but I paid 2.15 for SHELL 98 PULP yesterday for the HSV (at a servo with 1.97 for the standard ULP stuff)

being a PIARC member, have done a number of 6 hour relay events at PI .... and when its raining, hailing at the Island, I get LOTS of tracks time during these ;) ps.. the pic is of my better half, she is good with the team board (held out for me)

100% agree with that having run both bikes (750 club racing) and the Grp A 85 Smithy special aka the VK Yellow Peril around there in State racing, Vic V8s, Sprints and Supersprints, it is the best in Victoria for both. The MotoGPS guys rave about it .... and I like running on it in the rain in...

I love Winton (lots hate it though) very technical in terms of car setup (as mentioned) but it really tests driver input too it is certainly not a circuit where the man with the most horsepower will always win ps.. having power steering and heaps of castor on the car helps ;)

all depends.... buy a much upgraded muscle car (that you didn't upgrade) ...you can bet it has not been babied! abuse is certainly possible... how much? who knows. do you have a full history on the car? these things will take a fair bit to break things (but watch the box input shaft, they snap...

a Borg Warner V8 or Turbo diff is sure stronger than the standard VC one

... it is NOT a VC V8 diff thats for sure! looks nothing like it :) it is a BW transplant (from a later model... VL or VN I would think)

as said... stamped 11QT is a Statesman red DEF not from a VL Walkie!

entirely possible...... IF the badge/indicator meets or exceeds the size and luminescence (brightness) ADR requirements

remove the air cleaner lid then lift/tilt up the base, the snorkel should then be free to remove it

... towards the guard you compress the rubber the clip is on by pushing down and then to get the end of the clip, the tang out of the radiator panel, you tilt it

smee?... easy as long screwdriver and push down hard on one of the recesses of the clip (which is on top of a rubber mounting block) then while pushing down, lean screwdriver over (towards the side of the car) and release the tang on the clip out of the body panel do it once and it becomes...

I do it after all block prep and mods are done... then good clean with a high pressure washer and use of the of the various brushes to clean the galleries (or hot tank again) with a hot water wash after and I then blow out out 'everything' and also run a tap into ALL threaded holes and its...

6AN from memory

Glyptal... in use in my race engines for 20+ years never flaked, peeled or chipped Neil Burns (LPs engine builder) said try it... Larry has used it since the 80s this pic taken in the early noughties (forget which race car the engines was in)

talking oiling and oil feeds...... I do the 'feed No4 'internal mod pic does not have the joining feed pipe installed yet... but you get the idea

.. just back from the dawn service at the local RSL Lest we Forget

so... just HOW MUCH oil did you add? where is it on the dipstick? don't larf .. I know of ppl who did an oil change .. added 2.5 litres or similar (or what was in the container) and wondered why the engine rattled on start up ;)

myths and legends with that question... but my recollection from some years ago a conversation with Chris (him of Chris' Porting Service) was 58cc ex factory which can drop a bit with decking

in addition to the original BCasts that came on the VK courtesy of its V5H hipo engine I have 2 sets of VLs that have had some really expensive head work done They are a much better base to start getting some real horsepower out of anything with early heads BCast are ok.. but the foundry...

and tuned to run on standard unleaded petrol too!

huh...??? the 304 engine in the VL Grp A SS vehicles was pretty much a standard Holden 308 (destroked like on VK) with no hot up gear (extractors excepted) unlike VK If you are really stuck get info on the A9L engine fitted to Vk Grp As

yup....

yup.. correct. MY16 was released at the end of Sept 2015

... or haha used an angle grinder to fit the vents !

.. custom job me thinks

haven't bought any valve train items since Covid hit... thankfully by the sounds of it! I have 2 assembled engines ...one in the car with Crane rollers and the other, on a stand has YT versions plus 2 or 3 spare sets (one I think is off the last engine that had a bore collapse and 'stopped' )...

I do a few of the Tony Knight oiling mods ... block and pump I didn't know this bloke called TK did them but I did a whole heap that Ian Tate showed me (some from my 202 drag racing days) and some for Holden V8s and i have found that Tony Knight does them. Do i have oiling issues? ... no but...

LS engine with carb or injection? if injection, use the factory system as it is rather neat IMO with a carb you will have to mock up something similar to what holden did on XT5 'Blue/black' V8s

plain basic 'silver' bolt on Crane rollers.... Crane 'CLASSIC' I think they are. from memory bought them from Outlaw in SA

I have both YT and Crane screw in jobbies (no machining needed, bolt them on type) on my heads and in 20 odd years I have been back playing circuit racer and turning mine to 7000 lap after lap... simply no issue Mind you, camshafts are not that aggressive LSA 106-110 and lifts up to 550...

reset needed for starters, as I read it lift the neg lead off the battery for at least 20-30mins and see if things improve

my VE SSv and E3 were not black, grey as pictured