Budget vz ss install in my ride

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Doing a budget install in my vz ss I thought I would start a thread which may give light to others doing the same and save some pain. I’ll edit things when I get time with tips and hints.

So far the gear involves
Eonon q03pro headunit
Ds18 6.5 component
Alpine s65 rears
Pioneer 8704 amp
Jaycar 1000w monoblock
Jaycar 2x150 reserve amp



The amp rack I constructed will fit under the rear parcel shelf, I just resprayed the amps for cosmetic value as they were second hand. Atm only the mono and 4 Chen are wired via 4gauge going into 0/1 gauge distribution blocks. Speakers to terminal block for easy final install along with amp on wire. I wanted to maintain boot space while making future upgrades and changes easy.



For wiring I have gone with a ds18 ofc 0/1 gauge kit, I removed the manual rubber grommet and cut a hole in it to fit it and re inserted it into the firewall. This passes through under steering around under kick board then under plastics all the way to back seat and into boot. And it fits fine there is plenty of room for a single 0/1 gauge run along with 12 gauge speaker wire and reverse cam, just take your time to make sure plastics are aligned and are not crushing anything with re fitting.


The front door skins removed and sound deadening placed inside and out. I used aerpro aps274f pods to fit my ds18 components as there 6.75 really and they needed some cutting. I used foam tape In between spacers and speakers, I also wrapped all wiring in it to prevent any rattling. I used a zip tie to thread crossover wire out to amp through rubber door grommets. With the rears I didn’t have as much luck and had to use a small section of factory loam which I’ll get to when I do the pass rear door as I didn’t take pics of the driver rear. When it comes to sound deadening remove any dirt and grease before applying with rubbing alcohol I used acetone which is a bit to aggressive. Work with small sections it’s not a display piece, though for perfection you can make cardboard templates. Use a roller to get out any air and make a good bond as well as save time.


Back with more when I get time

 

[rambunctious]

And here I am oiling the antenna cause it won't go all the way down.

 

[Jolls]

Love your work. Thanks

 

[2_stroke]

Next the tweeters I’m just going with the ds18s that came in the kit as keeping things on a budget is key atm. I may upgrade these to type alpine type r or something else later on and run off the extra amp without using crossovers for more control over my sound. I took the ac door vents and used a 41mm hole saw to get a nice tight fit on the tweeters, yes there’s a 1mm over hang but it’s hardly noticeable to the naked eye. The tweeters are in extremely tight and do no move I may apply a small drop of apoxy on each just for piece of mind that they cannot move. The wires are stealth and connects to the tweeter out of crossovers. I found mounting like this to be the best option for sound quality as the default space sends the sound scattering and sounds poor with the direction of high frequencies. It also allows for a neat setup
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Lol just have a crack at it sound deadening is cheap, paid $66 for my eBay stuff and that alone makes a huge difference to not only your sound but the noise of inside your ride, time consuming yes though tackle a door each weekend ect and reap the benefits. Another very good upgrade are the alpine type s65’s at around $100 a pair it’s a quick easy upgrade over factory that will blow you away over sound quality.

The head unit I went with is a eonon q03pro, it’s got everything you need at an attractive price for a Chinese android 10 unit. The selling point for me is the DSP which gives me awesome control at the price over other unit’s here’s a few picks of the unit’s audio control. And by no means am I saying it’s the best, though for me and my needs and budget it is.

 

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Running the cable through the back seat behind drivers seat by simply removing the 13mm bolt after removing seat and lifting up. There's a hole which the boot loam uses which you can feed in that way. This makes for a neat safe install, nothing to cut and your wires are safe.


Fitting the tweeters was a quick solder and heat shrink job then clipping back into place


Onto the passenger side of the car which starts with removing the door card for front passenger. I next strip off the clear plastic weather shield and wipe over with wax grease remover so the sound deadner has a good clean surface to stick to. I next remove the bottom door places held under those covers with a 25 Torx type screws. The kick board on the side next. Then slip rubber door grommet off and use a zip tie to needle thread through it. I use a type 2 sound deadner on the speaker area which is foam on deadner the rest with be type 1 just normal sound deadner. I also take time to zip tie old speaker connector back to loom and wrap it in foam tape to prevent noise.

 

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Just a few more of the start of the sound deadner being applied since I can only post 10 pics per a reply.

 

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The passenger front door done as you can see amp and mid wires going down and tweeter up to door corner. I use Velcro tape on the crossovers and I’ll place rubber foam on top to help with it not coming loose and making noise like I did with drivers side.

 

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Just how I put the foam rubber on top of crossover’s to prevent them ever coming loose and vibration as when the door card goes on it applies force down on them and with the Velcro tape makes movement impossible.