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They don't like it here either! It still don't stop me putting in a system!

Permatex aviation form a gasket #3 non hardening is not bothered by fuel oil or water. If you want to make sure it is not going to leak, coat the gasket and the seat part of the threads on the bolts no more worries. I hope that helps.

The wifes VR 5Lt 4l60e just got rebuilt for $2200

Try replacing your coils or crank angle sensor. DTC 76 - Air/Fuel ratio variation between left and right banks This may be a false code thrown up because of the miss. However you may also want to check that both oxygen sensors are ok and in reasonable condition. I hope that helps.

Good to hear from you!

Check the LPG system fuse it may have blown with the intermittent connection.

we got 330K out of the one in my wife's VR currently my VS built box is in her VR until I can afford a rebuild for hers. We only pulled it out as it was starting to slip and get warm.

My wife's VR made this noise for a while it turned out to be the swaybar rubber. It had moved out of location which was making the noise on left hand turns. once back in place we had no more problems.

Let the engine check light flash 3 times the first time as a code 12 then it may show a code. I had the system give me the same issues twice before the first time the immobilizer in the bcm, was throwing a code and prevented the computer from telling me that the hall effect sensor was playing up...

holden will probably still sell them but it will hurt the back pocket as you, need to get a new key fob and have it programed to the BCM.you can do this at most locksmith's and it is a lot cheaper than holden.

If when you check the codes it comes up with a 31, this may be a BCM fault as the BCM has the anti theft module located in it and I have had 2 fail before.

VR VS and VT ser 1 all run OBD1 with and OBD2 plug. you will need an ALDL cable to use the pcm software. Sorry here is a link or you could just search ALDL Cables on Ebay...

I would do another code check to see if it throws up any new codes now.

Just because they are new does not mean they can't be faulty. when the engine is idling, try pulling the leads off one at a time (and putting them back on of course). That should give you an idea where the noise is coming from. possibly even a dead spark plug. I hope that helps.

Check All the leads are plugged back into the Dizzy and on the spark plugs properly

No, unless you take a rocker cover off and find the rockers not moving when the engine is rotating.

your BCM (Body Control Module) would be leaving the Anti- Theft active, and That would be preventing your car from starting. Sometimes this stops the engine from cranking on some cars but mine would still turn over but no injector pulse.

if it is disconnected longer than 30 seconds or if the battery is so flat that there is no charge in it it will wipe the codes. Is the security light going off (as in when you push the button on the key fob)?

Have you done a code check if so what codes did it bring up? If you disconnect the battery it will wipe the codes.

The ignition module reads the signal of crank position to give injector pulse. It does this by letting the pcm know what position the crank is in as the injectors are batch fired on a 5lt.

Check for codes using the link in my signature and you don't need to hook up a computer just use a paper clip

The only things I can think of are the DFI module under the coils or the CAS has given up all together. V6 owners or others feel free to correct me if I'm wrong

pour cold (read as room Temperature) water on the CAS when it is running rough. If it smooths out it is the CAS. I hope that helps.

I suggest that you check the wiring to the Coolant temperature sender as you said it is still throwing a code 15. as these cars are now up to and over 20 years old there may be a small break in an old brittle wire. I hope that helps!

Try clearing the fault by disconnecting the battery for about 2mins this will allow excess current to dissipate from the system allowing the ecm/pcm to reset/clear the codes then reconnect and run the car to see if you get the codes come up again. I hope that helps.

No i had no warning except the occasional code 31 (theft Deterrent signal missing).

mine only does that when the Throttle Position Sensor is having a moment/ dead. Try a code check for yourself using the link in my signature if you are not sure how to do it.

If you replace the hall effect sensor and still have no luck, I suggest you replace the BCM as I have had 2 BCM's fail on 2 separate cars (one a VR ser2 and a VS ser2) I suggest the Hall effect sensor in the dizzy as it is about $30-$40 from JCar if you think you can fit it yourself. Replacing...

when you look at the car I think it is on the left of the Harmonic Balancer. It should be easy enough to get to.

I'd say CAS (Crank Angle Sensor) randomly failing when warm/hot. next time it won't start try some cold water on the CAS and see if that works.

check the codes with a paperclip, how to is in my signature. i hope that helps.

Try a fuel pressure test when it is having the issue when it is warm as the fuel pump may be having issues when it has been running a while. I hope that helps.

As the general said, Check the codes as this may save you spending needlessly on parts. The how to and what the codes mean is in my signature. I hope that helps.

To me it sounds like the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is playing up. this means when the engine is running at times it is trying to guess what position the throttle is in. I have had issues like that before and it can also lead to hard shifting in the tranny with light throttle or the...

Thanks for the follow up! :spot on: Glad you were able to get it running again.

PM The1 (Nigel) or Delcowizzid. They may be able to help with tune. I hope that helps.

I'm not sure on the DFI module heating up maybe a V6 owner could help on this one but I do know they need to be earthed properly.

try a code check that may help!

If you just keep starting new links for the same question people will stop helping you! I am not being nasty but people will track a particular post. However if it keeps getting posted as something else each time when you don't think you've had a timely response, instead of continuing with the...

1.Check your fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump output as it sounds like it is running out of fuel under high load and when the engine comes down to the lower revs there is no pressure/Fuel left for it. 2. Bleed your cooling system properly, if you don't you will end up with an air pocket and...